WHAT IS GOTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres, including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain.

Version 5.0 was published on 1st of March 2017, 3 years after the Version 4.0 was introduced and 12 years after the launch of the 1st Version. The high ecological and social requirements as well as word-wide practicability and verifiability were considered in the revision work, in order to achieve a reliable and transparent set of criteria.

The information in this section provides an overview of the content and basic requirements of the standard. It does not reflect all criteria of the standard and can therefore not be used for any official purpose.

AIM

The aim of the standard is to define world-wide recognized requirements that ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer.

Textile processors and manufacturers are enabled to export their organic fabrics and garments with one certification accepted in all major markets.

CRITERIA

The consensus of the Founding Organizations was that a clear and unambiguous understanding of the content required that the Global Standard itself focuses on compulsory criteria only. The standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibres. The final products may include, but are not limited to fibre products, yarns, fabrics, clothes and home textiles. The standard does not set criteria for leather products.

Fibre Production


The key criteria for fibre production can be identified as:

  • Organic certification of fibres on basis of recognised international or national standards (IFOAM family of standards, EEC 834/2007, USDA NOP)
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  • Certification of fibres from conversion period is possible if the applicable farming standard permits such certification
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  • A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade ‘organic’ must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres whereas a product with the label grade ‘made with organic’ must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres
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    Processing and Manufacturing

    Key criteria for processing and manufacturing include:

    Environmental Criteria

  • At all stages through the processing organic fibre products must be separated from conventional fibre products and must to be clearly identified
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  • All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meeting basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/eliminability
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  • Prohibition of critical inputs such as toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes
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  • The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals
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  • Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching)
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  • Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited
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  • Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited
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  • Restrictions for accessories (e.g. no PVC, nickel or chrome permitted)
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  • All operators must have an environmental policy including target goals and procedures to minimise waste and discharges
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  • Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant.
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  • Packaging material must not contain PVC. Paper or cardboard used in packaging material, hang tags, swing tags etc. must be recycled or certified according to FSC or PEFC
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    Technical Quality and Human Toxicity Criteria

  • Technical quality parameters must be met (s.a. rubbing, perspiration, light and washing fastness and shrinkage values)
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  • Raw materials, intermediates, final textile products as well as accessories must meet stringent limits regarding unwanted residues
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    Social Criteria

    Social criteria based on the key norms of the International Labour Organisation (ILO) must be met by all processors and manufacturers. They must have a social compliance management with defined elements in place to ensure that the social criteria can be met. For adequate implementation and assessment of the following social criteria topics the listed applicable key conventions of the International Labour Organization (ILO) have to be taken as the relevant basis for interpretation.

  • Employment is freely chosen
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  • C29 - Forced Labour Convention
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  • C105 - Abolition of Forced Labour Convention
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  • Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected
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  • C87 - Freedom of Association and Protection of the Right to Organise Convention
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  • C98 - Right to Organise and Collective Bargaining Convention
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  • C135 - Workers' Representatives Convention
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  • C154 - Collective Bargaining Convention
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  • Working conditions are safe and hygienic
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  • C155 - Occupational Safety and Health Convention
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  • Child labour must not be used
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  • C138 - Minimum Age Convention
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  • C182 - Worst Forms of Child Labour Convention
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  • Living wages
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  • C95 - Protection of Wages Convention
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  • C131 - Minimum Wage Fixing Convention
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  • Working hours are not excessive
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  • C1 - Hours of Work (Industry) Convention
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  • C14 - Weekly Rest (Industry) Convention
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  • C30 - Hours of Work (Commerce and Offices) Convention
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  • C106 - Weekly Rest (Commerce and Offices) Convention
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  • No discrimination is practised
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  • C100 - Equal Remuneration Convention
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  • C111 - Discrimination (Employment and Occupation) Convention
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  • Regular employment is provided
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  • C158: Termination of Employment Convention
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  • C175: Part-time Work Convention
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  • C177: Homework Convention
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  • C181 Private Employment Agencies Convention
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  • Harsh or inhumane treatment is prohibited
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  • C29 - Forced Labour Convention
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  • C105 - Abolition of Forced Labour Convention
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